There are vendors that will give Patchogue II practice boats to Second Sol sailors in the following locations; just wear your 2013 S4L Regatta group tag and click the vendor.
Here’s the Patchogue II Manual:
Thank you for your purchase of the Trudeau Patchogue II, our “mostly mesh” rework of our popular original Patchogue catboat from 2009.
So what’s a Patchogue? It’s the name of a Native American Indian Tribe, but for our discussion it’s not a what, but a where. Patchogue, on the south shore of New York’s Long Island, was where the region’s greatest boatbuilder – Gilbert Smith – developed the Great South Bay Catboat into an art form. The Trudeau Patchogue was inspired by the designs of Smith, who as a contemporary of the great Nathaniel Herreshoff (Herreshoff was known to visit Smith’s yard incognito, trying to find out “how he made ’em draw so little water and go so fast”), evolved traditional workboat designs into amazing pleasure and racing craft.
Your Patchogue, like all Trudeau sailboats, has been designed for maximum SL sailing realism – from appearance to operation to sensation. Our latest sailing scripts feature animated *TruSail* sails, apparent wind, mainsail reefing, boat to boat wind shadowing, trim affected by skipper and crew placement and other features, so she’s sure to challenge the most experienced SL skipper (please review the sections below – “Skipper and Crew”, “Sail Trim “, “Real and Apparent Wind”, “Reefing” , “Wind Shadowing” and “Centerboard”). Or not – just go with the flow and you will get there eventually 🙂 In any case, we are sure you’ll have as much fun sailing it as we did putting her together.
Please see our Patchogue catboat page: <TBA> for more information and links to all of the PSD customization templates.
First Things First
The first thing you’ll notice when you touch it to sit is all the hidden parts, this boat has a lot going on hidden from the eye.
–mesh halyard materials for the 3 different reef settings
–mesh sail furl and tie materials on the boom for reef settings
–mesh mainsheet parts
–caching mainsheet sculpt textures.
–definition of the boat’s physical shape.
–wake particle generators
There are a bunch of features we’d found neither possible or practical on previous non-mesh boats such as the detailed rigging, sail furls on the boom when reefed and a working (woo-hoo!) mainsheet. Not for nothing is she a 58 prim equivalent.
Patchogue II, as a lines-accurate model of the iconic Gilbert Smith design catboat (and much more accurate than our previous Patchogue), has a very low profile.
If fact, much of her cockpit is below the waterline. Since SL prims don’t (and likely never will) have water displacing properties, we used the old “masking” texture to keep most of the water from the cockpit when sailing relatively level. It works fairly well, but there are two drawbacks with this method. First, the masking texture also masks avatar parts (remember the invisiprims that came with your old prim shoes?) So any part of your AV, such as your legs, that dangle below the cockpit water mask will be cut off (yo ho, me hearties, get your peglegs). We took this into account when developing all of the boat’s animations.
Second, setting your viewer’s “Advanced Lighting Model” option for enabling shadows negates the effect of the masking texture. So if you have shadows on, your Patch II will look like the image on the right.
Skipper and Crew
Like most Trudeau boats, the Patchogue II can be sailed with the assistance of a crew, everyone involved wearing a HUD. In that case the skipper is typically responsible for casting off, steering and mooring and the crewmembers for sail handling depending on boat heading and wind direction under the direction from the skipper. The crew controls his or her position using the left-right keyboard arrows – these positions effect the heeling angle of the boat and it’s speed potential. Just like a RL sailboat, no? 🙂 The HUD object is copy and transfer permission-ed, so Shanghai *your* crew by dropping this HUD on them 😉
Patchogue II can carry up to 4 people including her skipper. The skipper position is “sitting” on the tiller prim (or either cockpit bench), the other crew/passenger sit locations are the top of the centerboard trunk and the fore and aft decks.
The settings CARD
In the boat’s contents you will find a modify permissioned* notecard — settings — which allows you to modify some of the boat’s – you guessed it! – settings:
// channel for listen on for voice and/or gesture chat commands. Avoid “0” BY ALL MEANS!
// If you are a racer, we suggest using the numerical part of your SLSF Sail number
// WWC windsetter cruise wind adds 90 additional degrees to the wind direction that’s broadcast compared to the wind direction that’s configured.
// If you are not racing in a regatta the uses the WWC setter (ask your race director), set this value to 0.
// If you are not racing at all, don’t worry about this!
// skipper positioning
SkipperPos=<-2.1,0.0,0.39> // <fore/aft, port/starboard, up/down>
// camera settings
CameraLocation=<-10.0,2.0,2.0> //sets the camera position in meters relative to the boat – <fore/aft, port/starboard, up/down>
CameraFacing=<0.0,-1.5,2.0> //sets the direction camera is facing, relative to the boat – <fore/aft, port/starboard, up/down>
//how many degrees off the optimum sail set before luffing starts.
//also number of trim degrees when setting the sails from the keyboard (up/down arrows) :
//keys for shifting skipper – 0 – Page Up/ Page Down, 1 – Shift Left/Right Arrows (value 1 disables steering in mouselook)
// make the tiller (and steering) behave like a RL boat’s – Tiller=1.
// legacy “car” steering – Tiller=0
//loudness value for luffing sounds – from 0 (off) to 1.0 (full)
// list of avatars allowed to skipper the boat. Add as many as you like.
// make sure to use exact spelling and Punctuation
IF YOU PLAN ON RACING YOUR Patchogue, IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU CHANGE THE ChatChannel SETTING! And also change your gestures to match. This helps reduce the control chat lag when a large group of boats are gather together, such as a regatta startline.
*It’s a weird SL thing, but sometimes edits to the settings card are not “taken” when saved. If you *don’t* see these messages from the boat after saving the card:
Trudeau Patchogue II: Reading in settings…
Trudeau Patchogue II: Ready.
Close the card, re-open, edit and save it again.
Use the <left> and <right> arrow keys to steer the boat.
Use the <up> and <down> arrows to let the sail in/out.
Use the <PageUp> and <PageDown> keys to shift location to either side of the boat.
Chatline Commands (all preceded by the /1 channel designator):
“raise x” — where x is “main”, “all” or “” — raise the sail and begin sailing.
“lower x” — where x is “main”, “all” or or “” — lower the sail and stop sailing. Note that the boat will continue to drift.
“moor” — lower all sails, come to a complete halt and reset the boat to non-physical state.
“dock” — returns the boat to the dock location entered with the set dock command. It’s best not to issue this command if your dock location is more than a few sims away.
“m <dir> <x>” — where dir is p (port) or s (starboard) and x is a positive number. Sheet in or out the mainsail by x degrees in the direction of dir.
“reef <x>” — set the mainsail reefing point – where x is 0 (full sail, no reefing), 1 or 2 (see discussion below)
“showsail” — raise the sails for display, without initiating the sailing physics
“hike <dir>” — where dir is p (port) or s (starboard). Move the skipper’s “hiking” position in the boat to counteract or augment the heeling force. There are a total of 2 skipper hike positions. Note: command responds to skipper only.
“crew <dir>” — where dir is p (port) or s (starboard). Move the crewperson’s “hiking” position in the boat to counteract or augment the heeling force. There are a total of 6 hike positions per crewperson. Note: command responds to crewperson 1 only.
“motor x” — where x is “on” or “off”. Start/stop the auxiliary motor. Use the <forward> and <backward> arrow keys to increase or decrease the engine’s throttle and boat speed, including reverse.
“id <xxxx>” — where xxxx is *up* to 4 characters. Appends the characters to the boat name for regatta identification. Adds characters if missing, changes characters if they are already present and different.
“shout x” — where x line of text. Relay SHOUTS the text from the boat – useful for regatta warning, protest and other situations.
The SET commands
The following command – set – is used for boat configuration options which are saved between sailing sessions. The set commands are as follows (don’t forget the /1 prefix):
“set alpha x” — set sail opacity (“set alpha 25” sets the sails to 0.25 alpha, or 75% transparency).
“set color x” — set the hull to one of several traditional color schemes, where x can be: white, white2, black, blue, red, bright
“set dock” — sets the return location for the dock command.
“set wind” — see discussion below.
The set command by itself lists all the parameters the boat has stored:
[19:31] Trudeau Patchogue II whispers: WindDir: 0
[19:31] Trudeau Patchogue II whispers: WindSpeed: 11.000000
[19:31] Trudeau Patchogue II whispers: WindDir+-: 0
[19:31] Trudeau Patchogue II whispers: WindSpeed+- : 0.000000
[19:31] Trudeau Patchogue II whispers: Wind Change Rate: 0.000000
[19:31] Trudeau Patchogue II whispers: Sail Alpha: 100
[19:31] Trudeau Patchogue II whispers: Dock: Isla de Jacqinda (2, 63, 19)
The SET Wind command in detail
The /1 set wind command turns on an artificial wind that overrides the fluky SL winds. It allows input of skipper defined wind parameters.
/1 set wind dir speed dir+- speed+- rate
(all parameters separated by spaces)
Example: /1 set wind 225 8 20 2 1
As with all the set commands, the boat will save your settings into it’s “firmware” for future sailing sailing sessions (as long as you save the vehicle back into inventory).
The parameters explained:
dir: sets average wind direction in degrees, clockwise from due North – dir 0 is wind direction due North, dir 90 is wind direction due East. dir 180 is wind direction due South, 270 is wind direction due West, etc. Must be a number between 0 and 359.
speed: sets average wind speed in m/second. Must be a number between 1 and 50
dir+-: sets range over which wind direction will vary from the average wind direction, in degrees. Must be a number between 0 and 45.
speed+-: sets range over which wind speed will vary from average wind speed. Must be a number no greater than the average wind speed.
rate: sets rate at which wind speed and direction will vary, +/-. Default is 1. A rate of 2 will double the rate of change over the default rate.
Only the first two parameters are required: /1 set wind 225 8 .
The command will continue to use the range and rate parameters previously set.
The HUD, constructed of mahogany and bronze, provides button control for the common boat handling commands:
Raise, lower, sheet in/out for the sail
Shift hiking position – left, right
Info button toggles the status text display for those who desire that precise data.
The following sailing status indicators:
Boat Speed: speed of the boat over the sea bed in m/sec.
Wind Speed: apparent wind speed in m/sec.
Apparent wind direction relative to the boat.
The HUD also has within it’s contents a notecard called settings. Edit this card if you wish to change:
//the number of degrees the sails are set with each click:
//the color of the HUD text display (in the standard LSL RGB color vector):
//changes the target of the hike arrows – Hike=skipper or Hike=crew
Before giving a HUD to a crewperson, you’d want to set the Hike=crew (and maybe set the card and the HUD to no mod). Otherwise *you’ll* move around from their HUD hiking arrow clicks.
(See the remarks about saving the boat’s settings card – the same SL issues apply in saving the HUD’s settings as well)
Trudeau Racers Info-HUD
Also included is this minimally processing HUD which gives text-only info updates specifically for users (racers usually) who issue commands through the chatline. It’s been observed that using this HUD can reduce lag in sims crowded with regatta boats.
If you want to drop a copy of the HUD on someone else so that they may help you sail her as described above in “Skipper and Crew”, please do the following.
1. Rez the HUD inworld.
2. You will see the message on the chatline “Trudeau HUD (<your name>’s boat): Channel burned in for <your name>”
3. Take the HUD back into inventory.
4. The HUD will now be titled “Trudeau HUD (<your name>’s boat)
5. Give that copy of the HUD to your crewmember (explain to them it’ll be good for *your* boat only)
Racewind Windsetters Interaction
Although designed more with cruising pleasure in mind, the Trudeau Patchogue II is completely compatible with the SLSF Race Wind system used in yachting regattas throughout SL. It is also compatible with the WWC’s setter “cruise wind” mode (see Patchogue II’s settings card WWCSetter=1 entry and remarks).
Upon hearing a windsetter’s broadcast, a dialog indicating the windsetter source, it’s broadcast settings and 3 options are presented to the skipper.
1. The Accept this option loads the racewind settings and turns off any further windsetter listens (and prompting) until the skipper stands and re-sits. The settings can be overwritten by the skipper with a /1 set wind command.
2. The Ignore this option does not load the settings, but keeps the racewind listen active. Be prepared to get dialoged by those persistent windsetters!
3. The Ignore all option does not load the settings, keeps the current boat wind settings and turns off any further windsetter listens (and prompting). It remains in effect as in the “Accept this” option.
Real and Apparent Wind
The numbers input with the set wind command or captured from racewind windsetters represent real-wind values while wind speed and direction values displayed on the HUD and the masthead pennant taletell are apparent-wind values. So what is the difference??? Real-wind does not factor in the boat’s movement for wind strength/direction values whereas apparent-wind does.
Please see this page for a full detailed discussion – http://www.sailnet.com/forums/racing-articles/20644-understanding-apparent-wind.html – but generally speaking, apparent-wind strength will be greater than that of real-wind when sailing into the wind, and less when sailing before the wind. As long as the boat is moving forward, apparent-wind will seem to come from a direction closer to the bow of the boat than real-wind does. The faster the boat is moving, the more pronounced the apparent-wind effect is. This is what accounts for the difference on what you see on the HUD compared to what was entered in the set wind command. As skipper, you will need to take the apparent-wind effect into account when deciding on optimum points of sail for getting from locations A to B, sail sets, reefing strategies, etc.
Patchogue’s *TruSail* sail will give you inworld indication as to whether it is in or out of trim. Raise the sail, you will see it flapping away in a highly animated fashion. When fully raised it will swing out, untrimmed, in the direction of the wind. This minimizes the boat’s initial heeling motion, preventing embarrassing dockside accidents 😉 Trim the sail in, the luffing (flapping animation) of the sail will decrease and when the correct sail trim is found for your point of sail, the sail will billow out and fill with the wind accompanied by a satisfying “thwap” sound.
To find your correct trim. The real life sailing there is a saying – “When in doubt, let it out”. When the sail starts luffing, trim it in. You will then be *close* to optimum trim. How close? See the LuffThreshold option in the settings card. That figure is the number of degrees set beyond optimum before you see luffing. The default is 5, which is a good compromise between racing and cruising. Serious racers would probably not settle for up to 5 degrees out of trim and can reduce that figure, the downside being more frequent luffing and sail adjustments. OK, I guess that is not a downside for racers, rather an important part of the game 🙂
If you are pinching (sailing close into the direction the wind is blowing), fall of the wind until the luffing stops – generally it’s best to avoid sailing within 35 degrees of the oncoming wind direction.
Basically, reefing is the practice of reducing sail area so less of the sail (and your boat) is exposed to the wind’s energy. Why would one do this? In SL, you probably wouldn’t as most SL sailboats just respond to higher winds by going faster – not such a bad thing, no? But in RL, it’s a different story – high winds can threaten to overpower a sailboat by making it much more difficult to control, cause equipment and human failure, force excessive heeling to the point of capsizing and all sorts of other nasty things.
The Patchogue II is modeled to respond to increasing winds in ways other than merely going faster. As opposed to modern high performance planing dinghies, she pushes her way through the water rather than skimming across it. One of the conditions that will slow a non-planing like the Patchogue II is excessive heeling. Leeway (lateral instead of forward motion) also increases with heeling. So it behooves us to keep our boat sailing as flat as possible. There are ways of doing this:
1. Move yourself and your crew from side to side.
2. Set a course off the wind – the closer you sail into the wind the more pronounced the apparent-wind, thus more wind pressure on the sails and the greater the heeling motion.
3. Spill wind from the sails by letting them out beyond the optimum setting.
4. Reduce the sail area by reefing – /1 set reef 1 or /1 set reef 2
Depending on the wind strength and point of sail, all of the above tactics could result in a slower speed than if you did nothing at all. The trick is finding the best strategy. A rule of thumb is that when Patchogue’s lee rail starts submerging under water, it is time to think about reefing the mainsail. Practice will find the sweet spot.
Tip: if you don’t wish to worry about all this, set a lower wind speed with the set wind command.
The centerboard is basically a retractable keel that pivots out of a slot in the sailboat’s hull. When raised, it is held in the centerboard trunk in the forward port of the cockpit. The centerboard’s purpose, in RL boats, is to provide lift to counteract the lateral pressure from the wind on the sails. In other words, it helps the boat sail into the direction of the wind and lessens the tendency of the boat to drift in the direction the wind is blowing, otherwise known as leeway. However, when sailing in the direction the wind is blowing (from a broad reach to a run), it *is* advantageous to drift in the direction the wind is blowing – in this case the centerboard just adds underwater drag to the boat.
The Patchogue’s centerboard is scripted to mimic this behavior. When the centerboard is raised, you will find the Patchogue hard to control and at the mercy of the wind when the wind is off the beam or higher. When running downwind, you will find your progress somewhat impeded with the centerboard lowered. So the rule of thumb is keep the centerboard lowered when sailing into the wind, and raised when sailing off the wind.
Wind shadowing is a phenomenon well known to RL sailboat skippers. Though complex and chaotic in physics, basically it comes down to the loss of wind force hitting your sails due to another object’s presence between you and the wind. These objects can be structures or trees on the shore, landmass topological features, but in regattas it will likely take the form of a competitor’s boat 🙂
If you get in the lee of another Trudeau Patchogue (or other Trudeau boat such as One, T12 , Epicurus, Leetle Cat II, Francois Jacques or NY30), your wind will be shadowed as well. The effect is like a lighting instrument – intense and focused between boats in close proximity to one another (like a spotlight) , less intense, but more diffuse and spread out with distance (as in a floodlight). The maximum range for the shadowing effect is a 20m radius between boats. Plan for it in your tactics when racing your Patchogue!
Allowing Others To Skipper Your Patchogue
Edit the boat’s settings card and add the name(s) of the avatars that you want to give skipper permissions to:
Add as many as you wish:
As the actual owner of the boat, you do not need your name in this notecard. You will need to give the skipper a copy of the HUD object.
The Drydock Wedges and Mooring Buoy
If rezzed over land instead of water, Patchogue will autorez boatyard wedges underneath her hull. Or if moored, touch the forward cleat to rez the mooring float. These primsets are not attached to Patchogue, so if you wish to move Patchogue around, please select both the boat and the cradle/buoy before moving. (note: Mooring Buoy not implemented yet for Sail4Life 2013 SECOND SOL Regatta boats).
The Sail Customization Files and Notes on Modding
(Sail4Life 2013 SECOND SOL Regatta boats have custom sail textures that matches your boat number – as they rolled off the Trudeau line. please don’t override them.)
The Trudeau Patchogue II comes standard with her period correct sail textures. You may wish to design your own custom sails from the templates found in the link at the beginning of this card and we’ve included two separate ways of loading your custom textures. The first is the notecard called sails.
Replace the card’s default texture UUIDs with yours and drop it into Patchogue’s contents.
The second is a script for those who may wish to distribute their custom sails and not expose the UUIDs. Follow the instructions in the included script _customSailLoaderPatchogue
and set the script as no-mod before distributing. This also goes in Patchogue’s contents.
There are those out there that like to get into the nuts and bolts really mod a mod-permissioned boat, removing, renaming, swapping out prims. Keep in mind if you do a lot of this, as she depends on certain prims named with specific names, Patchogue may stop working correctly 😉 IMPORTANT: disable all of Patchogue’s scripts before any unlinking, then reset the scripts before enabling them when you are done.